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Handmade paper is traditionally made with various vegetable fibers or cotton rags, but to use these materials involves boiling and using caustic chemicals to break down the fibers. A much easier method uses recycled paper and can be just as much fun and employ just as much creativity. A simple mould and deckle can be made from two small embroidery hoops, keeping the cost well within the normal crafter's range.
You will need the following to complete this first project:
Cut a small piece of screening at least two inches larger around than your
hoops. Separate the two parts of one of the hoops and stretch the screen over
the inner one tightly, securing it with the outer hoop as you would a piece of
material for embroidering. This frame now becomes the mould and the uncovered
hoop becomes the deckle.
The couching cushion should be prepared prior to the papermaking process. Couching is the traditional term for transferring paper onto the surface upon which it will dry. Using the non screen covered deckle, trace the inside of the shape onto several thicknesses of newspaper and cut out a thick pad. Set these to the side on a flat surface, placing several thicknesses of regular sized newspaper beneath the couching pad. The pad may be dampened to allow it to lie flat and should be covered with a dampened sheet of felt material or Handi-Wipe. Depending on how many sheets of paper you wish to make, several couching pads can be made ahead of time. Each pad will hold up to 10 sheets of paper, depending on the thickness of the paper you create.
Tear, never cut, the paper to be recycled into pieces about the size of a large postage stamp. Paper pieces and pulp may be prepared ahead of time and stored in jars or other covered containers.
Fill the blender or food processor no more than 3/4 full of water and put in no more than 35 pieces of torn paper for every 4 cups of water. Attach the cover and begin the pulping process, by turning the blender on. Generally, lightweight papers need to be processed for 25-35 seconds, tissue for 60 seconds, and card weight for 70-90 seconds. Paper can be soaked overnight to speed the fiber breakdown and requires less blending time.
When the first batch of pulp is prepared, pour it into the tub and continue processing paper and adding it to the tub until the tub is half to two-thirds full. Stir the pulp gently with your hand or a clean spoon to distribute the fibers evenly in the water. If left undisturbed, they will settle quickly to the bottom.
Now is the time to add the liquid starch for sizing. Sizing is desirable to
avoid inks from soaking into the paper fibers. If the paper is going to be used
for writing on or stamping, it is advisable to add some type of sizing. Stir 2
teaspoons of liquid starch into the pulp.
Fit the deckle (open hoop) over the mould (netted hoop), so that the netting is sandwiched in between.
Hold the mould and deckle firmly together and over the far side of the tub,
making sure that the deckle is facing you.
Then, with smooth movements, lower the edge of the mould and deckle
vertically into the pulp on the far side of the tub. Pull the mould and deckle
toward you, while at the same time, bringing them to a horizontal position under
the pulp, with the deckle on top of the mould. Lift the mould and deckle
straight up out of the pulp, making sure to keep them horizontal. Hold them a
few inches above the surface of the pulp and allow the excess water to drain
off, at the same time shaking gently to allow the fibers to settle evenly. Rest
the edge of the mould on the nearside corner of the tub and gently lift off the
deckle, making sure to support the mould. This should be done quickly, taking
care not to drag the deckle into the pulp on top of the mould. Also, try to
avoid dripping water from the deckle onto the mould. The paper is now ready for
couching.
Couching the paper can be a little tricky, but like with most things, you
will improve with practice. Carefully hold the mould in a semi vertical position
on the near side of the couching cushion.
In as fluid a movement as possible, lower the sides of the mould so that the
paper is face first on the cushion. Press firmly.
Gently lift the nearer end of the mould, pressing the further edge firmly
into the cloth. If the paper does not release, gently shake the mould or use a
palette knife to remove it.
Several sheets of paper can be stacked on the mound, making sure to cover
each one with a section of dampened felt before the next one is added. After all
the pulp has been used, press firmly on the mound, squeezing out as much water
as possible. The newspaper pad beneath the couching cushion may have to be
changed several times. Placing dry newspaper underneath and on top, weight the
stack of papers with a few heavy books and allow to dry. The sheets of newly
made paper may also be allowed to dry singly, but will have to be either ironed
or weighted when dry.
Several sizes of handmade paper can be created in the same manner by using
inexpensive wooden picture frames instead of embroidery hoops. Be sure to
purchase two frames the same size as each other, one for the mould and one for
the deckle. It is advisable to use the sturdier window screening for any moulds
larger than small embroidery hoops, since the more pliable window netting with
stretch and sag within a bigger framework. Attach the screening to the mould
with small tacks or staples, remembering to stretch it as tightly as you can.
Small strips of plastic may be helpful underneath the tacks or staples to help
hold the screening firmly in place. It is also necessary to remember that you
will need a tub big enough to completely emmerse the mould and deckle in a
horizontal position. Cat litter pans work well as do the large plastic
containers made by Rubbermaid.
There are several different ways to produce pretty colored papers. Powdered paint and liquid paints will both tint the pulp before the sheets are formed. Food coloring can be used, as well as waterbased inks. Tearing up small bits of colored paper and adding them to the recycled paper when making the pulp will give a pale tint to the sheets. Also, you may wish to include natural plant dyes, such as those made from tea or herbs.
Texture, both visual and tactile can be added in many ways. Snip small pieces of embroidery thread and either include it in the pulp or sprinkle it across the newly formed sheets before couching. Dried flower petals, either whole if they are small, or crumbled into the pulp will make a pretty paper. In fact, almost any plant material will work well, such as grasses, grass seeds, bits of fern, etc. But don't stop there. Try sprinkling bits of paper confetti, or even the mylar kind. Try a sprinkle of glitter in the pulp. Yarn fibers, bits of raffia, tiny bits of torn or cut tissue paper, tea leaves, dried herbs, burlap fibers, and a handful of crumples dried leaves...all these and more can give your handmade paper a special individuality. Experiment, try lots of things.
You can also learn with a little practice to make impressions or "castings" with still damp, newly formed sheets. Look for patterns around you, or make your own. Laying a still damp sheet face down on a piece of burlap and then covering it with a board and a few books atop that, will produce a sheet of paper with a surface texture of the burlap. Couching a sheet of damp paper over a bowl and folding the sides and smoothing them, then letting it dry in place will produce a "paper bowel". Use your imagination here to create all sorts of things with your own handmade paper.
Remember- There are no "rules" in art. The true artist does not see
things as they really are. If they did, they would cease to be an artist.
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